The Hakodate Guide

General

Hakodate, with a population of around 280,000 people, is currently the third largest city in Hokkaido after Sapporo and Asahikawa.

Mount Hakodate (函館山)

Mount Hakodate (Hakodate-yama) is a lumpy forested 334 meter mountain shaped like a kneeling cow, hence its nickname "Gagyuzan" meaning Cow's Back Mountain. The mountain tips a small peninsula that fans out from the mountain's slopes. Due to volcanic activity the mountain formed some one or two million years ago as an island, and in the meantime a buildup of sand connected it to mainland hokkaido. The summit's observatory tower provides excellent views of Hakodate Bay and the Tsugaru Strait, framing the city's night lights into a slim hourglass. The ropeway is the easiest way to the summit, but there is also a road that is open during the summer months. Buses or taxis to the top are also available. The motivated can also hike it.

The Tsugaru Strait (津軽海峡)

The straight separating Hokkaido and Honshu that flows between the the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Japan. It is 110 kilometers long and 18 kilometers wide at its narrowest point. This side of Hakodate consists consists mostly of sandy beaches separated from homes, restaurants, and hotels by a cement retaining wall. On a clear day one can see all the way to Honshu, and at night during the fishing season the lights from the squid boats look like diamonds floating on the sea.

Hakodate Bay (函館湾)

This side of hakodate is very industrial, but it is nice to take in from the Motomachi area or from the man-made green island known "Midorinoshima". The new Starbucks also has a nice rear deck on the second floor from which you can take in the bay.

TachiMachi (立待岬)

A cape jutting out from Hakodate-yama into the Tsugaru Strait, Cape Tachimachi offers jagged rocks and cliffs overlooking both the strait and the Yunokawa side of the city. Stand and wait, presumably for fish.

Goryokaku (五稜郭)

Goryokaku,　the first western style fort built in Japan, is the 5-pointed star that leaps out from any map or satellite image of Hakodate. Despite its admittedly brutal history, there are so many things to love about this park, like how the moat freezes in the winter, how the cherry trees turn the entire fort pink during Golden Week, or how during the hot summer months the turtles, birds, and carp mill about in the moat near the bridges while dodging the occasional rowboat. If you're looking for dogs running down frisbees or joggers getting in their evening laps, you may find what you're looking for at Goryokaku.

Seasons (季節)

• Spring (Warm days, cool nights, very little humidity)
• Summer (Swimming in Yunokawa, Hiking on Mount Hakodate, Minato Matsuri)
• Fall (Changing of Leaves in Onuma)
• Winter (Cold, but less snow than almost anywhere else in Hokkaido)

Transportation

• Trains: Hakodate is just 6 hours from Tokyo if you use the "shinkansen" bullet train. The 53.85km Seikan Tunnel, connecting Hokkaido and Honshu, is an engineering feat, being both the longest and deepest rail tunnel in the world. From Sapporo or Niseko, Hakodate is only 4-5 hours away by train, and well worth the visit.
• Streetcar: Tourists always seem to be lining the street taking pictures of the streetcar, which runs the length of Hakodate from Yunokawa through Honcho then straight on down to the mountain. Handy for commuting if you live along the line, although it can get crowded during morning and evening commutes and when there are special events on. Grab a ticket when you get on, that will determine your fare.
• Bus: The routes are pretty hard to wrap your head around, but otherwise there's not much to hate about the local bus service. Remember, like the streetcar, grab a ticket when you get on.
• Taxi: Cabs are very affordable and almost omnipresent in Hakodate. The drop is cheap, and there's not many place in Hakodate proper that you can't get to for under 2500 yen.
• Bicycle: Cycling is my favorite option. Most of Hakodate is not so hilly, and many people commute to and from school or work by bicycle. If you choose to ride in the winter though, be very careful, winter tires with grip on ice are highly recommended.